Assembly Line Box Pleat Dress works well in wool suiting

This is the Assembly Line Box Pleat Dress and I got it out of 2.5 metres, as the pattern suggests. The front is cut in two pieces, which helps to get the most from the fabric.
This wool suiting is an absolute dream to wear, it floats like silk, but has the warmth of wool. As a Minerva Brand ambassador, I was given the fabric free.
It has a thin, vertical chalk line and is 98% wool, 2% polyester and is 150cm wide. I washed this fabric on a cold woollen cycle, and line dried it and it came out perfectly.
I was between XL and XXL and made it in 2XL. That is the largest size they do and is for a bust of 46-48”, waist 42-44” and hip 51-52”.
Comparing this pattern to others I’ve made, I did a 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment, and lowered the front neckline a bit.
If I make it again, I would bring the shoulder seam forward another 1/2”, lower the front neckline about another 1/2” and raise the back neckline about 1”. I would also do a narrow shoulder adjustment of at least 1”. It doesn’t really matter in this fluid fabric, but I think the shoulders as they are would look awful on me in a stiffer fabric.


I lengthened the sleeves by 1”, but since I bound them instead of hemming, this had the effect of lengthening them about 2”. I wouldn’t lengthen them at all the next time, if binding.
The facing pattern piece has front and back all in one, which I just find confusing. And since I altered the neckline, I drafted a conventional facing with a shoulder seam. But in the end I went with the contrast binding. I was afraid the all grey would look a bit nun-like in this pattern!
I used a knit viscose for the binding and attached it the binder attachment for my coverstitch machine.
I did a double row of topstitching in the red down the front; and red bar tacks on the pockets, side slits, and at the top of the back pleat.
I used the method from the Muna and Broad Willandra Pants for the pockets. With this method you cut in a bit on the top bit of the pocket and the whole pocket is joined up before doing the side seams. I find pockets do less flapping about in a side seam when made like this.
I’m going to a posh hotel with my three lovely sisters-in-law for an overnight soon, and I plan to wear this dress to dinner.

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