This is the Cashmerette Fuller graded up in size and lengthened into a coatigan.
This started because I have had this cool green and navy cotton fleece for ages (www.craftystudio.ie) and can’t figure out what to make with it. It is fleecy on the inside, so quite thick but has only a one way very small amount of stretch. So it’s not suitable for any patterns for sweatshirt fabric.
I thought if I graded up the Fuller and lengthened it, it might work for non-stretch fabric. But I wanted to test it first in this blue. It’s turned out to be a wearable muslin! The blue grades towards dark navy/black towards the selvage and there is no width ways stretch so it should have been a match. However, now I don’t know if it is because it does have a little vertical stretch.
I have had this blue fabric in my stash for ever and I bought it when I didn’t know that Ponte varied in quality. So it’s not the best quality really and I’d say it’s all polyester so I didn’t want anything next to my skin. But I think it has worked for this coatigan. But now I see it partly works because it has some drape and my green and navy fleece does not! Ah me.
I cut strips of fabric 1.5” wide and used some of this to bind the neck using the binder attachment on my coverstitch machine.
I used more of it to create a facing/button placket which I interfaced with non-stretch interfacing.
I brought the facing right down to the hem. I folded up the coat hem and mitred it at the corners with the facing.
Snaps instead of buttons
I used snaps instead of buttons. These kind of worked but they struggled to get through all the layers and some of them have come off. I had tested them on the same fabric but without interfacing. Lesson learned! I’ve managed to hammer them back on but I’m going to use these as little as possible so I suppose they’re really only decorative. They were labelled ‘anorak’ snaps which I thought would be sturdy enough, but they didn’t work well in this project.
I used the pocket pattern piece from the Helen’s Closet Pona jacket and then I curved the top to match the neckline of the coatigan. I also curved the bottom corners a little.
I bound the top of the pockets instead of turning a hem so I used rivets instead of barracks to strengthen the corners. There were a lot of layers of fabric here! I don’t often use that sticky placement tape, but it was very useful here.
There are darts in the shoulders and at the bust, which give this pattern nice shaping. I serged them all to avoid having flaps of fabric hanging around.
Back to wear I started (but I have a nice coatigan!)?
I may make this again but not sure if it will be in the green and blue intended fabric!
The top is a hacked version of the Wiksten shift top; and the trousers are a very old Vogue pattern.