I think this might be my favourite coat/jacket I’ve made so far. It’s the Muna and Broad Mallee jacket and I cut a straight size D lengthening it 10” at the marked lines and on the facing.
Pattern is for boiled wool so I needed to change construction
I did have to change the construction method a good bit because this pattern is specifically for boiled wool but I made it in a fleece-backed, mainly cotton, Ponte. I didn’t want the white of the fleece showing through. For the boiled wool version the patter suggests the facing is topstitched onto the inside so the edges are technically raw. I used the same facing pieces but I sewed the continuous facing loop right sides together first, then under stitched then top stitched at the outer edge and along the inner edge (of the facing on the inside).
I changed the pockets to zip pockets for the same reason – I didn’t want the white fleece showing through. I only had invisible zippers on hand so used those.
This all worked really well but it does look a bit messy on the inside where you can see the pocket inners; and the seam allowance is 5/8” and they are inclined to roll a bit on the inside. This doesn’t really matter because this is a very soft fabric. In the original pattern, the instructions show a different method for the suggested boiled wool and that takes care of this.
If I were making this again in a non-boiled wool, I would line it to tidy up the inside. I would probably lower the pockets too as I placed them where suggested in the original jacket pattern.
Testing, testing, testing
I went slowly with this and tested the mitred corner facing to see if it would turn in under well. I also tested the pocket and the button holes.
For the facing corners, I graded and clipped all the layers, but didn’t do this along the straight lines. After I top-stitched the edge of the facing down, I tacked it all down with red thread. I was using two reels of thread for topstitching so I sewed on the outside, but I wanted to make sure I caught all the facing.
Automatic buttonholer and automatic button sewer!
I was lucky enough to get a new Pfaff machine for my birthday in April and for the first time I used the automatic buttonholer and the yoke for actually sewing on the buttons! I kid you not. What a revelation!
The lovely fabric is from Ann Marie at http://www.craftystudio.ie, but I bought it a few months ago so not sure it would be still in stock.
I am also wearing One-seam pants from Cutting Line Designs (https://www.cuttinglinedesigns.com/shop/c/p/One-Seam-Pants-x37619526.htm) and an LB Pullover from Paper Theory (https://papertheorypatterns.com/products/copy-of-lb-pullover-pdf-pattern). These are two of my favourite patterns.