Stripy Eva Tee from Pattern Union

I haven’t made at T for a while and I also wanted to make one for the forthcoming ‘Sewing Lovers Ireland’ t-shirt challenge. This is the Eva Tee from Pattern Union (https://www.patternunion.com.au/product-page/eva-tee). I think it worked out okay. However, when it was finished the sleeves were much too long and a bit tight towards the wrists – fine for once on the biceps! I dealt with this by slicing 6” off the sleeve length and this left me with just two folds to turn over and secure with the tab. It also meant the sleeve ended at a wider point.

Graded from size 16 to 22

I graded from size 16 at the shoulders, to the size 22 F cup from the underarm (there are 3 separate cup sizes provided in the pattern). This is a common adjustment for me. I used the size 22 sleeves. I also did a 1/2” forward shoulder adjustment – again I usually need to do this. I have found that generally it works on most patterns if I go down to 16 on the shoulders and then grade up from the bust. I was expecting this to be a slightly looser fit – because its 22 F/G is supposed to be for 50.5” bust and mine is 46.5”. But this is probably something to do with how I graded the pattern.

Using plastic snaps instead of buttons

I used plastic snaps on the tabs instead of buttons – just easier to do on jersey. I also interfaced the tab with stretch interfacing. I cut the tabs about an inch wider than the pattern piece and 1” longer. Then I sewed one long side and one short side. After I turned it right side out I sliced off about 1/2” of the short closed end. I do this because it is easier to turn something inside out this way. After slicing off the end I then tucked a neat hem inside each end of the tab and topstitched the whole way around.

I applied binding with an attachment instead of bands

I did the neck edge and curved hem at the bottom of the T with my binder attachment on my coverstitch machine.

Aligning stripes

To get my stripes aligned nicely, I first sewed the side and sleeve seams on my sewing machine using a zig zag stitch. I then overlocked the seams. I find on the serger that one layer of fabric is pushed slightly more than the other and it’s really hard to match stripes. My sewing machine has a walking foot built in and by pinning every second stripe, it’s then easy to get them aligned.