Mix and match Monday

Arden pants; Ashton top; LB Pullover; Kabuki tee; self-drafted trousers

Helen’s Closet Ashton top and trousers drafted from three different patterns. Fabric is a drapey viscose.

I’ve been trying to make sure I can co-ordinate clothes in my wardrobe and I had this in mind when I made these over the weekend. They’re the Helen’s Closet Ashton top (https://helensclosetpatterns.com/product/ashton-top-pdf-pattern/) and trousers hacked from three patterns: Cutting Line Design one-seam pants, and Muna and Broad Sculthorpe and Glebe pants.

Faux jumpsuit

I kind of like the faux jumpsuit look.
The fabric is a beautiful viscose that I got for £8 a metre at sewsewsew.co.uk (unfortunately it’s sold out).

The navy linen top is the LB Pullover and the red and tan linen top is the Kabuki Tee – both from Paper Theory. https://papertheorypatterns.com/
The brown trousers are also from Helen’s closet and they are the Arden pants (https://helensclosetpatterns.com/product/arden-pants/). I have made several of these and I have another pair cut out. They’re really comfortable and easy to wear, although I find I need to use a fabric with a small amount of stretch to accommodate sitting-down spreadage!

Ashton top adjustments

I had to do quite a few alterations for my first Ashton, so now I can make one in a couple of hours.
I did a 3/4” forward shoulder adjustment, which is standard for me.
I also did a 2.5” (1.25” either side) full bust adjustment as described on the Curvy Sewing Collective (see link below), because my high bust falls into size 16, ie 40” but my full bust is 46.5. So as well as the FBA I cut from the shoulders down to below the bust at size 16 and then graded out to size 20 at the hips. My hips are 2” larger than size 20, but that was taken care of by the full bust adjustment.
However, when I tacked the side seams I could see I needed to make the darts wider at the base and a bit longer. I hadn’t been quite sure how to adjust dart when doing FBA. So I took it apart and changed this and marked the changes on the pattern.
I love the fit of this top now especially on the shoulders and neck.


I’ve started automatically making matching masks. I hope this is not a forever necessity!


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