These are the Muna and Broad Noice Jeans which is a pattern for all-cotton, heavyweight, non-stretch fabric. This is 12.5oz, heavy, Mind the Maker denim, which I got from http://www.quiltyarnstitch.com They are the first trousers I’ve ever made from non-stretch fabric that have no elastic in the waist. So they did take time.
This fabric was perfect for this pattern and my machines had no problem sewing it, even through many layers.
I didn’t really use the paper instructions at all because Leila from Muna and Broad has a video tutorial (split over several videos) that takes you right from the start to the end. I followed along step by step, pausing as needed. I’d never done this before and it was just brilliant. I had no head scratching moments at all – even with the complex zipper. And it really felt like a one-to-one tutorial. And it’s free!
Technically I fell between sizes for these but I didn’t really know how to grade from one size to the other with multiple pattern pieces. So I went for size D which matches my hip size. Because my waist size is between B and C, I then had gaping at the back.
Top is the original pattern piece; centre is the traced copy with a dart drawn in (final one in red); and bottom is the final pattern piece that I used. I ended up cutting the back yoke out three times to get it right.
After messaging with Leila, one half of Muna and Broad, I ended up reshaping the waist yoke and also taking the centre-back seam of the yoke in an inch (total of 2”). To reshape the waist yoke I traced it on to paper, added a dart with a 1” base, folded the dart over to have a flat piece of paper, and then traced again. This meant I narrowed the waist by a total of 4”.
I tapered the top of the back crotch seam to match.
I then made the necessary adjustments to the back waist band – I was guessing here, but luckily it worked out.
The instructions tell you when to baste the yoke, and front and back.
I ended up basting and taking apart the jeans twice, before sewing for the final time. I also added and removed cotton tape around the waistband twice – to stop it stretching out when trying them on.
The only thing I missed is that the front was gaping a bit too, by about 1.5” – as I could see clearly when the jeans were finished. But it’s nothing a belt can’t solve, and it gives me a bit of breathing room.
The only machine issue I ran into was with the button hole. I had to get out this old contraption in the end as my modern machine couldn’t handle the buttonhole. I tested it on exactly the same test fabric, but something to do with the weight of the garment (even though I supported the fabric) and I just couldn’t get it to work. This contraption attached to my old machine did it first time with no trouble at all. I bought this some time ago on E-bay.
I’m lucky enough that my old machine still works, so I did all the top-stitching on that. When I ran out of top-stitching thread I just used two reels of normal thread in the same colour and that worked well too.
I just hammered on the rivets and the button and that was easy. I get confused with all the different parts for those press things, and find just banging them on works fine.
I learnt a lot from making these but because they do take some time, I will wear them for a while before jumping into another pair. I have some lovely denim, but I may use it for another pair of Muna and Broad Glebe Pants. They are a simple pattern, where I’ve already done the fitting – and I’ve made them successfully in rigid denim before.
The stripy top is the LB Pullover from Paper Theory, and the vest is merino wool (can’t remember the pattern).