Wiksten Shift Top with shirttails!

I’ve been experimenting with using different fabrics in the binder attachment for my Babylock Coverstitch over the last week. To my surprise all the fabrics worked, even cotton flannelette.

Patterns and trousers’ fabrics

The tops are a hack of the Wiksten Shift top.
https://shopwiksten.com/products/womens-modern-shift-dress-top-sewing-pattern
And I added with the shirttails from the Style Arc Dixie woven top.
https://www.stylearc.com/shop/sewing-patterns/dixie-woven-top/
The navy and natural coloured linen trousers are an old Vogue pattern, V9305.
The brown trousers are the Helen’s Closet Arden pants in cotton sateen (97% cotton, 3% lycra).
https://helensclosetpatterns.com/product/arden-pants/
I got the sateen from http://www.craftystudio.ie
The culottes/shorts are a mash up of various patterns, and I added shirring to the side of the legs. The fabric is a lightweight cotton chambray.

Sizing

Because this Wiksten was going over my hips, I went up one size from 20 to 22. I’m 40 (high bust), 46, 40, 50.

Order of binding

When doing the binding by machine like this, this is the order I sew it in.

  1. Sew left shoulder seam.
  2. Sew binding around neckline.
  3. Sew other shoulder.
  4. Sew binding on to both sleeve hems.
  5. Sew sleeves on (flat) across the shoulder.
  6. Sew one side seam from wrist to waist.
  7. Sew binding right along the bottom garment hem, front and back.
  8. Sew remaining side seam, from wrist to waist.

I tack down the seam allowances as I go (see pics).

This is my setup for applying binding.

Fabrics used in the tops

The mid-blue one is cotton seersucker; the stripe one is cotton poplin; the pink one is cotton seersucker; and the navy gingham is lightweight, cotton flannelette.

The striped top

For the blue and white striped top, instead of cutting the front and the back on the fold; I cut them flat, added seam allowance to the centre back and front, then sewed them together.
I matched up the horizontal stripes at the side seam.

Published by sheilaokelly

Sheila O'Kelly is a freelance journalist, sub-editor, specialist in plain English and e-novelist

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