LB Pullover in boiled wool for layering

Paper Theory LB Pullover in boiled wool with Cashmerette Pembroke dress in ponte.

I’m quite excited about this boiled wool top and I’m going to make several more. It’s the sleeveless version of the LB Pullover from Paper Theory.
https://papertheorypatterns.com/products/copy-of-lb-pullover-pdf-pattern
There are no alterations to the pattern except for length, though I have changed the construction to suit the boiled wool.

Lapped shoulder seams

I lapped the shoulder seams as shown in the really clear video from @LeilaSews from @MunaAndBroad at https://www.munaandbroad.com/blogs/news/overlapping-seams-for-your-mallee

Shoulder seams are lapped over each other and the neckline has a cotton facing.


I drafted a 2-inch Liberty Tana lawn facing for the neck even though boiled wool doesn’t fray. That’s because this is a heavyweight boiled wool and slightly prickly. I sewed the facing on right sides together, understitched it, edge stitched it from the right side and then at the outer edge of the facing. I’ve started hand basting facings now before sewing instead of using pins. I find it much more accurate and less stressful, because generally it then works first time.
It’s hard to tell the difference between the back and the front of these tops when they’re finished, so I sewed a tag in under the back neck facing. Otherwise this can be quite annoying in the morning when getting dressed!

The tag at the back makes it easier when getting dressed!


The cotton protects my neck area. I will always be wearing this over something else so the itch factor doesn’t affect me elsewhere.
I self-faced the arm openings with 2” strips of the boiled wool. I sewed these on after closing the shoulder seams and before sewing the side seams.

The arms are faced with boiled wool on the inside.


I sewed the side seams as normal. I didn’t do anything to the hem except top stitch around the edge to avoid any stretching out that might happen later.


I got the fabric from http://www.quiltyarnstitch.com
I sewed this grey one last week and it didn’t need neck facing because it’s a softer boiled wool.

This grey one didn’t need a neck facing because it was a softer boiled wool.

The dress underneath is a Cashmerette Pembroke that I made last year.
https://www.cashmerette.com/products/pembroke-dress-tunic-pdf-pattern

2 comments

  1. Hi Sheila – just found your lovely, chatting and inspiring blog. I live in sultry, humid Cairns (North Australia) and, as you can imagine, natural fabrics are important. I too starting dressmaking a few years ago and there’s been screaming, frustration and tears – hubby heads for the hills on bad fit days. I love these wee boiled wool tops – I currently have very few colder weather clothes and when we head south or overseas. I struggle with layering clothes. How do you care for the boiled wool items – machine wash? I’m looking at doing something like the Tessuti Hazelwood top or Verona jacket in boiled wool. Regards, Sandra

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    • Hi Sandra
      Lovely to hear from you!
      Boiled wool is great for layering. Before I sew the item, I wash the boiled wool on a cold woolen cycle. On my machine, this cycle lasts 40 minutes. I use woolite, which is a liquid detergent made for wool.
      Even though I wash all my other clothes probably slightly more than necessary, I don’t expect to wash these boiled wool items very often, because I never wear them next to my skin and they don’t seem to pick up dirt!
      Hope you get to go south or on your overseas trip.
      All the best.
      Sheila

      Like

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